How to paint a room

• Time1 to 2 days
• DifficultyEasy
• People1, ideally 2

You will need

• Emulsion for ceiling and walls, such as matt emulsion, and paint for woodwork from our interior paint range
• Roller with a medium-pile sleeve, roller tray and extension pole
• Paint brushes: a 50mm or 63mm brush for cutting in and a smaller brush for woodwork
• Low-tack masking tape and dust sheets
• Interior filler, filling knife and sandpaper
• Sugar soap, sponge and bucket
• Stable step ladder
• Screwdriver for switch and socket faceplates (see safety note)

How much paint do I need?

Measure the height and width of each wall and multiply to get the area in square metres, then subtract large windows and doors. Check the coverage rate on the tin, usually given in square metres per litre, and divide your total area by that figure. Multiply by the number of coats, usually two. Buy enough of the same batch for the whole room so the colour is consistent, and keep a little spare for touch-ups.

Step 1: Prepare the room

1. Move furniture to the centre of the room or out entirely, and cover everything with dust sheets.
2. Take down curtains, poles, pictures and shelves. Keep screws in labelled bags.
3. Cover the floor right up to the skirting. Tape the edges of dust sheets down so they do not move.

Step 2: Fill, sand and clean

1. Fill holes and cracks with filler, slightly proud of the surface. For deep holes, fill in layers.
2. Once dry, sand flush with fine sandpaper and dust off.
3. Run decorators' caulk along gaps between skirting, architrave and wall for a neat painted finish.
4. Wash walls and woodwork with sugar soap to remove grease and dirt, especially in kitchens and around switches. Rinse and allow to dry.
5. Lightly sand glossy woodwork so new paint grips.

Step 3: Paint the ceiling

Always start at the top, so drips land on surfaces you have not painted yet.

1. Cut in around the edges of the ceiling and around light fittings with a brush, painting a band about 50mm to 75mm wide.
2. While the cut-in edge is still wet, roll the ceiling in sections using an extension pole. Work away from the main window so you can see missed patches in the light.
3. Load the roller evenly in the tray, and roll in overlapping strips with light pressure. Avoid pressing hard, which causes lines and spatter.
4. Leave to dry for the recoat time on the tin, then apply a second coat.

Step 4: Paint the walls

1. If the ceiling and wall colours differ, wait until the ceiling is fully dry before cutting in the walls.
2. Cut in along the ceiling line, corners, skirting and around frames, one wall at a time.
3. Roll each wall while the cut-in edge is still wet to avoid visible bands. Work in sections roughly a metre wide, from top to bottom.
4. Finish each section with light, vertical strokes in the same direction for an even texture.
5. Complete a whole wall before taking a break, so the edges do not dry and show as lines.
6. Apply the second coat once the first is dry.

Step 5: Paint the woodwork

Paint skirting, door frames, doors and window frames last, using a satinwood, eggshell or gloss. Mask the wall edge if you are not confident cutting in freehand. Paint doors in a set order: panels first, then the vertical and horizontal sections, then the edges. Apply thin coats, brushing out with the grain, and allow good drying time between coats.

Step 6: Finish and clean up

1. Remove masking tape while the final coat is still slightly soft for a clean line, pulling it back at a low angle.
2. Check the walls in daylight and touch up any thin areas.
3. Clean brushes and rollers as directed on the tin; water-based paint cleans up with water.
4. Ventilate the room while paint dries, and put furniture back once surfaces are dry to the touch.

For kitchens and bathrooms, read our guide to the best paint for bathrooms and kitchens.